See above about Power Point program.

Need more pictures here.

Some of the new washers are hardly pliable material and may not fit tightly in the end of the hose. Some fit loosely and do not seal very well. Some you really have to work to get pressed into the hose end.

Also did either end of your old hose have a screen fitting like the black one shown in my picture below ? Sometimes they do sometimes they are a molded in part of the valve on the back of the washer

Screen could possibly be blocked not allowing water flow but doubtful. Also possible the plunger is broken/ blocked inside the valve and is not fully opening and closing since you mentioned it still dribbles when it's shut off.

I'm doubting the valve issue has anything to do with the washer buzzing unless it's low water flow out of the valve. What sort of flow do you have if you disconnect the hot hose from the back of the washer and have the valve fully opened? Good flow or less than normal ?  

 Do you have buttons for load size ? Hot/cold/warm water ? Try pressing them back and forth. That selects which solenoid opens and closes on the washer valve. Also selects water level for different sized loads.

Also try spinning timer around a couple times

As was previously stated make sure the button on the lid is not stuck. You should be able to hear an audible click as you open and close the lid.

There are many different type solenoid valves on the back of washing machines. I've attached a couple here so you can see them.These would be behind the back panel on the machine. It could be when they were yanking around on things a wire could have gotten disconnected from a solenoid. ?  If you get to poking around under the back cover on the machine be sure to unplug it from the electrical socket first.

(valve.jpg)

(valve 2.jpg)

valve.jpg (34KB - 93 downloads)

valve 2.jpg (20KB - 80 downloads)