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Lapel, In | 7 1/2 " rows would conserve more moisture vs. wider rows. Narrower rows will keep the soil temperatures cooler than wide rows and this may be important to you. Spray RU 21-28 days after emergence as a rule. This may be the only spraying you will need to do. Scout weekly for new weed flushes after the initial spraying. New weeds generally won't germinate once the beans canopy unless they are deep seeded weeds . Beans need most of their moisture when pods set on. During pod fill, water is even more important than at pod set for maximum yields. Seed is not innoculated and it is very important to innoculate in your situation since the nitrogen fixing bacteria may not be present in your soils.The exception would be if alfalfa has been recently grown on the field. Slightly wet the beans so the innoculum will stick to the seed if you are going to do this by hand and since you are only trying soybeans, I would go that route the first year.
Just run over the beans with your sprayer. You will kill a few of then unless you have a 3 wheel sprayer. Tests have shown beans will survive very well if only one wheel runs over them. Its the second wheel that seems to do more damage , but don't be concerned if you have two wheels that run over them. Beans will compensate for any killed and you may not even be able to tell where the tracks were at harvest.
Seeds per bag will depend on who sells and bags them. I would shoot for 180,000 seeds per acre. You may be able to lower that population in future years depending upon gemination and disease pressure that you will expeience.I would go with an early group 3 bean. What are your temperature ranges during July, August and September?
You can probably get by with a straight cut header if you don't mind a few push ups, especially if the soil is sticky , but a floating head will soon pay for itself should you continue growing beans in future years.
Edited by msb 2/24/2008 14:26
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Going to Try some Soybeans
