Brian,

First, who's callin' who a northuna?  Huh!!!???

We're glad that your first shot at winter wheat in a while was a success.

In terms of fertility at planting, phosphorus is the most important in winter wheat. Either you have a healthy soil test (>25ppm), or I'd be pounding on 1-200 lbs of MAP/DAP /ac. Personally, I'd dispense with the 28% in the fall, and put the $ towards phosphorus. I'd also drop the 28% because too much N will result in luxury feeding in the fall or early spring, and possibly result in poorer winterhardiness.

If possible, if you can lay your hands on a no-till drill of any color, it would be helpful. We find that stirring the top layer of dirt will create a loose layer, then a 'transition' where the water has to move sideways to find a macropore outlet. This layering promotes heaving. As well, leaving the residue on top will also act as an insulation against heaving compared to nice black dirt that draws in the frost, and then draws in the warm rays of sun in those early spring days. Like you suggested, it wasn't the deep cold of winter that will pooch wheat, it is the freeze/thaw of March/April that gets it.

Population - Sept 10-25,  1.4-1.5 million/ac. Add .1 million for every week after. Know your seed size, adjust accordingly. It will save you money on seed, and make you money on yield. (You still planting soys @ bu or lbs/ac?)

Depth: 1-1.25"   Shallower, and the crown roots don't develop correctly (like corn), deeper, and it takes longer to emerge. If you have to err, err on the side of being a little deep.

I assume that you dessicated the Navies. Can you guys use Rup for this yet? If you have, then you are starting with a clean seedbed with all of your perennial/biennial seedlings (dandelion, marestail, bindweed, sowthistle) dead. This also negates the need for fall tillage.

Fungicides are a spring thing. Lets get it through the winter before we consume more bandwidth.

Hi to mummy, Rick and Llloyd from the suthunas...

Luke    aka  Ken SWOnt