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| I tend to grow a fair bit of milo, at least for the area, and have put fertilizer on about every way imaginable. From anhydrous in December, January, or also right ahead of planting, to dry, usually right ahead of planting with a spinner. To liquid topdressed. To liquid down with the planter. This last was usually double cropped. Honestly, what I like the best is topdressed, for the even distribution from the sprayer. BUT, you need a rain fairly quickly to get the N down to the roots. Usually, the phosphate/potash is put down dry with a spinner, or liquid with the planter. But I just went all no-till, and have a 1590 with dry fertilizer, and I was wondering the same thing. Plant the milo in 15" rows, with the fertilizer in-between, using the other set of openers. This year I just planted in 15" rows, and some in 30" rows with the drill. Our early growing season was a disaster, though (WAY to wet), and I'm not sure I'll learn much, except to put down more seed with a drill than a planter, and don't look at the field too hard until it is headed out, as drill milo just looks bad, compared to planted. The poor spacing with the drill is the worst part, I think.
What is bad this year is that I have milo that went in with a full moisture profile, which, granted isn't as much in this area as others, and has had over 20 inches of rain in June and July since I planted it, and it is burning up. We finally got back in about July 8 and planted some, and it has had 3/4 of an inch since planting. It is hanging in there, if we could get back to a rain. | |
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Applying dry fertilizer while drilling Milo
