Near Intersection of I-35 & I-90 Southern Mn. | Here's a trick to try. When you are in the diagnostics, if the F1 box is gray, flip the Master ON and wait a long time like 30 seconds or longer. If the box eventually turns green, then flip it OFF again, the box should go to black (not gray). Leave it OFF for 30 seconds again and watch the colors. It should never go gray.
The F1 box should switch between Green (switch ON) and Black (switch OFF). If it ever shows gray, the system does not believe there is a switch present at F1 and doesn't bother to check it until it performs its next "switch presence routine". This is why 3 wires are involved to the switch rather than just two as one might expect. When I was a beginning Tech this really confused me at first.
One incoming wire is 12V constant, Another is incoming and is called switch detect, it is normally ground but briefly goes "hot" when the switch presence routine is going to be run. The third wire is the return wire from the switch back to the Auxiliary Input module. All 3 wires must get used or you will have very confusing results.
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