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Testing an AgLeader Auxiliary Input Module
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tedbear
Posted 5/16/2023 12:29 (#10231422 - in reply to #10231315)
Subject: RE: Testing an AgLeader Auxiliary Input Module


Near Intersection of I-35 & I-90 Southern Mn.
I was in a very similar situation during corn planting. I'm using the SC110 CAN switch box but your switch box and Auxiliary Input module serve the same purpose.

We decided that the Master switch or something dealing with it was not reliable. In my case the Master switch, section switches and Auxiliary Input circuitry are in the same enclosure. We were sitting there with the planter UP and not moving. When we watched the diagnostic screen, the Master switch and the section switches that were ON should have been green which they were. However as we watched, the Master (F1 at that time) would go to black meaning the system didn't feel that it was present.

I was able to go to my dealer where I used to work and got a loaner SC110 CAN switch box. It worked fine which confirmed my suspicion that there was a problem in my SC110 switch box. Since a new SC110 CAN switchbox is some $800, I wanted to salvage the one I had. I attempted to open it up to see if it would be easy to change the Master switch so that I could use my SC110 and return the loaner. It did not appear to be easily done.

However, with both your Auxiliary Input module and my SC110 CAN switch box there is a brown connector. This connector can access the switches known as E1, E2, E3 and E4. Any one of these can be used as the Master if you wish. I made a small box and put a "new" Master in that box and connected it to the E1 pin in the brown connector. After doing this I did need to go to the configuration and inform the system that I wanted to use E1 as the Master instead of SWITCH (which was F1 and apparently bad). We are now using my original SC110 and this new Master. I may try investigating the original Master switch sometime before next year. We are not done planting yet due to heavy rains lately so I don't want to mess with anything at this time.

If you should want to use E1 as a Master there are some tricks involved with the wiring which are confusing to explain. But believe me they are necessary. With a single toggle switch leading to the green connector 3 wires must be involved. 1 is 12V, another is called switch detect and the last is the return signal. The toggle switch is usually a SPDT meaning that the common connects to one or the other terminals at all times. That type of switch has 3 terminals.

If I were there, I would move the 3 wires from your green connector to the appropriate pins in your brown connector and change the setup to watch E1. I have the pins outs somewhere if you wish to go that route.

Edited by tedbear 5/16/2023 12:31
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