Sometimes I'll bump it up/down a notch or two, just so I don't run short or long on seed. It's a real bummer having to have a couple sacks shipped in or driving 100+ miles just to get a dinky dab of seed, Plus screwing away 1/2 a day running after 2-3 sacks of seed.

Where I live you have to irrigate else you won't get squat. Less than 7 inches of moisture a year, I believe is the National weather service average. The water is brought through canals about 80-90 miles to the valley, from lakes in the middle of the Cascade range. Least it's all down hill and doesn't have to be pumped. (well some does but that's another story)

A reduced water supply just about kills alot of this valley for the year.

Didn't think before I hit enter,, but thought you'd ask about fert, chemicals.. I will do soil samples then, since the only fert available locally is dry, I'll put out the P & K necessary in the fall and about 1/2 of the N needed, since we can only get urea. Urea leaches awful thru winter,,so basically about enough N to get the wheat up and started ok. Then I'll come back in the spring and have the necessary amount of Urea put on, and usually spray weeds. Before starting irrigating,, wheat's about 6" tall. Oh,, 2-4D, Banvil is pretty much the "standard". Yah, there some fancier "whiz-bang" chemicals on the market,, but I've not seen any results that warrant the extra cost of the "whiz-bang" stuff.

 The Fert. Company's spreaders can fertilize-spray and seed in 1 Pass across the field. Make's it nice for seeding down things like timothy, alfalfa, Teff, etc.  One pass done! No they don't seed grain thou theoriticaly they could, if they used the Fert tank for wheat seed.  I personally would rather use my old grain drill, that way I know exactly how deep and rate/acre I'm putting on.