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Iowa | 1) Shoot it. It will be off more than you think
2) Build pad wih MINIMUM of one foot above the HIGHEST original benchmark. Overbuild pad at least 2' in all directions. You say water standing nearby--I'd raise the pad 3 feet and built a long gentle slop for driveway. If built too low, you are forever screwed.
3) Remove sod before building pad
4) You will be sorry if you don't grub out the stumps
5) Don't build too close to rest of yard and buildings--give yourself plenty of room for backing out/turning around/machinery getting bigger, etc.
6) Related to #5 above--don't plop it down where building the pad is cheapest--build it where it should be. The $$ spent leveling up/changing the spot you really SHOULD place it is a small portion of the entire project. Allow for adding on later.
7) Crushed asphalt, if available locally, is better than any other "rock", especially crappy, dusty limestone. Crushed asphalt = no dust. Wait and "gravel" after shed built. Leave pad just compacted fill for now. Construction will muck up/ mire down and spoil your gravel anyway, plus it will be hard to "landscape" around completed shed with gravel scattered about. Afterwards, you can put the "gravel" and black dirt for grass exactly where you want then--they won't be mixed together.
8) You can rent a transit, scraper and sheepsfoot and do the pad yourself--not very hard, takes time, saves $$.
9) Above info worth exactly what it cost you. I have built 12 buildings here, above advice covers most of the mistakes I have made. | |
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Machine Shed Grading
