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tyler self propelled sprayer
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ChrisTN
Posted 3/22/2008 21:31 (#339749 - in reply to #339710)
Subject: Re: tyler self propelled sprayer



Ethridge, TN
It's been a little while, and I'm a little rusty, but depending on what part of 96, this could have the rounded cab on it, which is the newer model, and much more comfortable than the older square cabs. If its a 150, it has a Duetz engine in it, and your on your own with that one. Some of the guys that had them liked them, and the opposite cussed them. The XL, or the WT had JD power techs in them, with the XL being a 125hp 4 cylinder, and the WT being a 175hp 6.

To run a real check on it, you need to check the oil in the hubs. If you have a hub that is over full, it probably has the brake unit out of it, and is pumping oil past the motor seal. If it's dark and gooey, they haven't been serviced like they should have. At around 3,000 hours, depending on the type of life it has lead, you might be looking at a possible hydrostat, or both of them, they are staked end to end. A lot depends on what it had for an operator behind the wheel. A pressure check, with checking the stall pressure, can give you a lead into that.

There was some frame updates done to the earlier series. Look at the frame, right behind the front axle to see if the update got done before it broke. If it didn't make it, it probably has some plates welded to both sides of the box. Thing there will be to see what the condition looks like now, as to how sealed the job was that was done. If it's gotten fert between the plates, well, I'm sure you can figure that one out.

Next, look to see if there are cylinders on the front wheel pivots. If you have a lot of hills, you want those, as there was some problems with power hop when pulling a hill. The cylinders are tied into the hydro, and as the pressure increase, translated more umph needed, this pulled the springs tight so that it couldn't grab and release traction on the front wheels. While in this area, also look at the axle slides, to make sure the tubes are not working inside each other. There are some poly slides in there that might need replaced. Also look for wear in the vertical pin, as well as the knee joints. Again, these areas will tell you how well the machine has been cared for.

Remember, a Patriot needs to be at full throttle when you move it. They rely on charge pressure to hold the brakes off. While it'll move at an idle, you aren't fully releasing the brakes, which causes wear and excess heat, and sooner or latter the brake unit going out and motor seal leaking. That isn't a cheap fix, as the brake unit is rather $$$. Otherwise the rest is just accessing the normal wear and tear on the machine.
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