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Faunsdale, AL | He’s got voltage there at the back of the alternator. he’s measuring 12.6, so the alternator should excite and build up to 14.3-14.7 volts.
Now, if the alternator builds up good voltage (14.5) and that big wire gets hot and/or the battery voltage stays in the 12’s-low 13 after it’s run a while then yes, the big wire back to starter solenoid is the prime suspect.
The “tooth pick” that holds the brushes back to assemble the alternator doesn’t seem to be in the little oval slot next to the shaft. Can’t see it in the picture anyway.
You can usually purchase a regulator plug to splice onto, or make a wiring harness if you want to not run it “one wire”. Or just use female spade push on connectors on your wires.
You can hook the 12-14 gauge wire to #2 terminal from the big BAT stud along with the big output wire. It does not need to be switched. (That big output wire needs to be a #6 or #8’for best performance if you need to replace it.)
The signal wire to #1 regulator terminal must be switched or it’ll kill the battery when the engine is stopped. I have used an oil pressure switch to do that job before. Just note that you need the switch to close on rise/open on fall of oil pressure.
Edited by ccjersey 3/19/2023 14:00
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L8000 Feed Truck Alternator
