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backflush water pipes
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jwal10
Posted 11/23/2022 20:28 (#9946894 - in reply to #9944915)
Subject: RE: backflush water pipes


Western Oregon
Why back flush? Just need a full flow valve at the end of the system and daylight a full size water line, what ever the house has. Outside faucets are not full flow. Flow does the work, more than pressure. Here I have an irrigation system, full pressure line, before pressure reducer on house line to flush the service line. We just open the "garden" valve and flush. If you have galvanized pipe, don't even try. They naturally close up.

House lines, be careful back flushing. If you have a pressure reducer and want to flush whole service line, it will need removed. If just wanting to flush house lines, set standpipe where you removed pressure reducer. If you don't have a pressure reducer, just need a full flow standpipe and let it run a while. You would need a standpipe on line after service meter, well service or pressure reducer and a pump to pump back through the house with a pressure reducer and gauge to monitor and set the pressure after full flow is attained. Better have good pipe, or you may have leaks. Good pressure and full flow creates a lot of cavitation. I would just flush.

When I worked for the city we flushed the waterlines through the hydrants 5" port long enough to flush from the prior hydrant. Turning it off too quick blew out big water pipes, pressure tested at 120 PSI. I saw the damage of a 12" blow-off valve closed too quickly on a 30" waterline between the intakes and water plant, pumping by 2 150 hp pumps. Blew out 16 joints of pipe....James
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