Robert,

In the past when I had to change one of these tires I would get a bolt on each side started and then alternate drawing them together until I could get them all started. I assumed (wrongly) that the 2 wheel halves recesses would self center on the bearing.

 After replacing the tires when I was trying to shim the tires to the openers for the appropriate clearance they would be very tight then very loose against the opener. I thought perhaps my arms were bent. After putting them on the jig and spinning them I could see they were not pulled together square. I ended up taking them all back apart and loosening the tires from the 2 rim halves. I started by putting the 3 center bolts in that are close to the center bearing. I would get them started then work around the tire tightening each of these 3 bolts about a 1/4 turn at a time and continuing around these 3 bolts until they were tight. I kept spinning the tire while tightening to make sure things were still square.  If things got out of round I would  tap the outside of the tire and rim to get it centered again. This proved a little more difficult than you might think as if you tapped at the wrong spot you would make the wobble worse or move the wobble to another spot.

 It was not always easy to pick the exact spot by eye where to tap to straighten so I would use a spacer out of whatever was handy and would fit loosely between the arm and the rim where you see the red arrow. When the wheel wobbled and pinched the spacer you knew that was the spot that needed pushed down to even things out.

 To me it seemed easier to get things started square and keep them that way vs. trying to tap the outside of the rim at the exact right space to correct the wobble.

Once the inner 3 were tight and things were square I put in the outer 4 and tightened them gradually also working around and around the perimeter and continuing to check the tire by turning.

The pics. and video clips are here.

http://imageevent.com/vprb/gaugewheelassembly