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| I wish there were a simple answer to your question, but the true answer lies in a model with coefficients, material composition, geometry, loading, etc. Hence, the theory is quite complex and any incorrect assumption instantly breaks down the model and makes it useless. Knowing that, I am quiet amazed at how much the grade of a bolt gets blamed for a failure when in fact the culprit could lie in another item. eg. an exhaust gasket.
However, here is my light at the end of the tunnel. First off my “must do” recommendations are 1) clean everything up. Remove all the dirt, paint, and rust from any area/components that are sandwiched together by the bolt. 2) Make sure the threads in the holes and bolts are very clean without any burrs or rust. (In other words, make sure you can screw the bolt completely into the hole with ease.) If you cannnot, then you may have to chase the threads in the hole with a tap.
Now, feel free to venture out on your own, but here is what I would do. Select a bolt, flat washer (thicker the better), and new lock washer of the same grade. I would oil the threads with any ordinary oil and oil the collar on the bolt (the place where the head of the bolt contacts the lock washer). Torque the bolt down to the upper end of a torque chart or to the feeling of where you are quite confident as not to strip the threads. In other words, NOT FARMER TIGHT! If you feel uncomfortable using solely oil, then I would not hesitate to use a medium strength thread locker (Blue Locktight.) But, I would not recommend using any thing permanent requiring heat to take it loose…I deem it unnecessary for your application.
Mav
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Locktite
