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SE Nebraska | Sounds like you're right where you need to be with your N program for that area. The only way overfertilization of N could be a culprit is from irrigation water. Would encourage pulling a few water samples to find out how much N you're getting from groundwater. The only problem I have with that though, can you actually tell me how much water you'll be pumping next season so that you can properly credit the N from irrigation water? I sure can't.
I also heard that chlorine can help with stalk strenght. Chloride can have an affect on disease resistance in the plant, helping imporve stalk quality in the long run. It also helps aid root development, which can lead to healthier stalks as well. I've never seen a response to chlorine though, our irrigation water supplies enough. I'm a little further east of you though, so I couldn't say for sure if you'd see a chloride response.
I would dig up some roots in problem fields and make sure root develepoment was alright earlier in the season. If you where struggling with side wall compaction , the curve tine closing wheels can really help (just one though). You have to make sure they are properly set though, otherwise they can fluff the seed trech to much and ruin seed to soil contact. (Can dry out V too much in a dry year as well, but your better off not running the in a dry spring)
Genetics do play a huge part. Yes, with some hybrids, you do sacrifice top end potential. If your yield goals are 200-210 (and even 225-235), there are some very good genetics that will yield that much and still increase your chances of standing. If your aiming for the 235-240+ though, your probably better off with a "racehorse" hybrid, and treating with a fungicide if foliar disease has the potential to be damaging. | |
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What can I do to get stronger stalks??
