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Waterproof basement walls
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iseedit
Posted 10/16/2011 10:45 (#2006205 - in reply to #2005832)
Subject: RE: Follow this advice ! ! ! !



central - east central Minnesota -

Jim - 10/16/2011 00:15

imho basement drainage and waterproofing is not the place to pinch pennies when building a new house. And being on a hill may not be much help depending on local soils and hydrology.

briefy I would put drain tile around the inside and the outside of the foundation , plastic perforated tile with a cloth sock to prevent silt filling it up. Surround this tile all around with 4" of washed gravel (no fines) 3/4 rock,  The inside loop should go to a sump pump. The outside loop should go to daylight if possible on a hill - or to a properly sized sump pump system if not on a hill. Make sure the drain tile is properly sloped for the water to flow where it is supposed to and (at or below the footing). Some contractors often just throw the tile in the hole with little regard for slope and call it good enough.

The outside of the foundation should be sprayed with a proper (=expensive per gallon) long lasting elastomeric compound by a well regarded experienced professional who doesnt skimp on materials to get the low bid. Apply a dimpled membrane over the spray or a fiberglass "drain board" which I like because it also provides a bit of thermal insulation (R5) but most important lets water get down to your tile rather than sitting against the concrete looking for a place to get in. Drain board or membrane should extend from the footing and tile up to the top to the foundation or soil line.

Then back fill 2/3 of the depth of the foundation with regular gravel and the top 1/3 with soil. Make sure the final grading is away from the house.  Also - install several floor drains inside the basement and garage.  Basically BTDT. Wet/damp basements are very difficult and expensive to correct later. Might as well do the job right when you can which is the brief time you can see the footings.  Economize somewhere else up above the soil line. Good luck.

Jim at Dawn



I wanted to Quote, Jim's opinion/advice -
YOU DO NOT WANT TO SKIMP ON THIS STAGE . . . when building new.
It's very little money, as compared to the whole - even if you are on a hill, above old grade.
Depending on your soils - if you are building on any types of clay soils - follow the advice closely. Clays and loams put verticle and horizontal pressures on a foundation walls - cracks/buckleing can develope over time.
One thing to do to help advert this is back fill with screened or washed sand for the 2/3's as Jim discribed. Not gravel. Gravel can pack too much and not give the cushion effect of washed/screended (masons'sand) sand.
As far as the drainage pipe - be darned sure to use a sock over it and use 3/4 minus washed rock - at least 1ft over/around it (on the outside) and up to top of footing inside. Cover the rock with landscape fabric. This keeps fines/silt out of those holes/pipe (oh, by the way, good field grade corrigated drainage tile will not crush if you place rock over it). I just finished redoing the foundation around my home. THe builder used the type of pipe you show, it was plugged full of silt . . . . . .no sock or rock on it.
I'd use a flexable membrane on the foundation as some suggest. It will seal the cracks, if any would develope (and it shouldn't if sand is used as a cushion/buffer of the shear of the native soils that push on a wall when they get wet and swell, freeze and heave and dry out and retract (all moving to wreck a wall). Another examle of flexable membrane is Hydroseal 3000.  http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/foundation/hydroseal-3000-foundation-membrane/p-1421711.htm  Follow the directions.
Tile inside and out. If you can daylight the outside tile, place a screen guard on it and cover it with rock so animals/rodents and insects have a hard time finding the opening.
The whole concept with waterproofing is kind of missleading - it's not waterproofing, it controlling the water to go where you want it - and you don't want it in your basement floor/walls.
Don't skimp with waterproofing now - the probems can show up yrs later, if not done correctly now.
Be sure to use gutters along with a good grade away from your foundation wall.

EDIT: what are you going to use on the places the concrete forms were tied together ? You need to seal each place where the forms were tied together - over time, that a place water could penitrate. This is in addition to the other waterproofing steps taken . . .. .



Edited by iseedit 10/16/2011 11:04




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