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Faunsdale, AL | The starter usually keeps cranking after you release the key or starter button because the contacts have welded in the solenoid. Usually because cranking with low batteries causes starter to pull too many amps for too long. Contacts get hot and stick.
It’s possible to have bad ignition switch or starter button that keeps one cranking but it’s rare. Those can cause more damage usually because starter keeps grinding in the flywheel or stays engaged in flywheel and gets oversped after engine starts. Operator may not hear it happening and take steps to stop it. When it sticks but fails to start the engine, you know to tap on solenoid or take battery cable loose.
A 30 amp circuit breaker in that ground wire will work as well. I grew up with a 64 model 4020 that didn’t even have that ground. Of course no lights etc. I think it might have had enough of a short in the wiring that the little oil pressure and GEN lights worked but nothing else.
The circuit breakers on the field modification kit go between the starter BAT connections and the wiring harness wires (I think a blue and a brown) that go into the area under the dash and controls and eventually feed the ignition switch. They were mounted on a small piece of sheet metal that slipped under two of the bolts holding the solenoid to the starter. Pretty tight getting that in under the intake manifold.
I waited until the 24 volt starter went bad and then took the opportunity to swap over to 12 volt negative ground with a Delco 10SI alternator. Would have done the same if the generator had quit first.
One thing about a 4020, it’ll still crank just as well after the conversion as you’re used to. I like to stay with the 12 volt batteries you already have and hook them up in parallel. You can still use two short cables to the transmission cover bolts for the grounds, and it’s possible to use the two long cables to run from the positive posts to the starter solenoid BAT stud…..if it’s long enough for two cables to fit on it without running out of threads. Or just make a single 2-0 cable to run from right battery positive to left battery positive and on to starter. If you’re having a cable made it’s a great time to put a disconnect switch on the tractor. Can run the new cable a bit past the starter to a disconnect switch mounted below the intake manifold there beside the engine and then run a short cable back to starter solenoid.
The later models came from the factory with two 6 volt batteries connected in series, so you can buy cables for that from Deere, but you can make or have cables made for the parallel connection as well. One weak 6 volt battery and you’re not going to start it. One weak 12 volt and it’ll probably still start. JD finally went to two 12 volt batteries in parallel with the 55 and 60 series. | |
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John Deere 4020 electrical
